Shots Heard ’Round the World

LONDON—As 2009 World Barista Champion Gwilym Davies clutched the microphone and cleared his throat to announce who would be taking over his crown for 2010, a packed crowd held its breath and gazed at the final two: Guatemela’s three-time winner Raul Rodas and repeat U.S. champion Michael Phillips. Moments later, with the words out of Davies’ mouth that the title belonged to Phillips, a loud “pop” sounded and multi-colored confetti littered the arena. The United States had produced its first World Barista Champion.
 
Phillips’ first action as World Barista Champion was to bestow a lengthy embrace on longtime friend Rodas. And Phillips’ humility in the heat of the moment—an emotional hug rather than a triumphant fist pump—was representative of the man who has maintained a casual and quiet demeanor while establishing himself as a powerhouse barista over the last two competition seasons en route to taking the international title. “Winning is simply the most humbling thing I have encountered,” says Phillips, of Chicago’s Intelligentsia Coffee. “I have been in awe of the talent that was represented in the WBC finals every year past, this one being no exception. To have the honor of taking first is amazing.”
 
To take the crown, Phillips didn’t veer far from the path that took him to April’s USBC victory. Inspired by a visit he made to Costa Rica cooperative Coopedota in February, during which time he learned about various processing methods, Phillips showcased several of them in his routine: His espresso used a washed process, his cappuccino a honey-process, and his signature drink consisted of three different drinks featuring a washed coffee, a honey-processed coffee and a full-natural coffee.
 
Phillips says he made only minor tweaks to his routine between the USBC and WBC, the most crucial being the addition of a detailed coffee menu and the decision to simplify certain elements in order to connect with judges from all over the world. “Serving to an international panel means that English may not be everyone’s first language and that some descriptors may not be understood,” he says. “Given the acrobatics and speed of what I was doing, I had to find a way to simplify and focus more. I did this by cutting out a ton of talk and bringing the focus down to mainly just processing. I also brought into play a menu that really helped to clear things up, giving details of the coffee and the drink.” WBC head judge Scott Conary says that Phillips’ ability to connect with his coffees (and their intricacies) was ultimately what elevated him above the other competitors. “One of the things that we look for always is that ultimate connection to the coffee,” says Conary. “He basically hit on everything that is possible to change in coffee—everything from the farm to the process to the roast to the extraction—and he did it all in one 15-minute performance.”

Though Phillips didn’t change his routine much between competitions, he suffered a freak injury—breaking his pinky finger while playing kickball—that kept him from finessing his routine as much he would have liked. “I had my arm in a cast for the majority of the time before the WBC,” he says. But Phillips says the situation ultimately may have helped him. “This year’s competition cycle was defined for me by being much more instinctual than any before,” he says. “I have never had so little practice time in preparing for competition. I think it helped me deliver a bit more of a real experience on stage.”

With his win, Phillips added the United States to the WBC record books, giving the country its first winner in the event’s 11th year. (The winningest WBC countries are Denmark, with four titles, and Norway and the United Kingdom, with two each.) As the competition matures, many more countries will likely take their turn in the spotlight; for the U.S., 2010 was a prime moment. “We have an immense pool of talent in this country,” says Phillips. “It feels great to finally give our community a chance to be recognized in the way other great coffee nations have.”
 
For the next year, Phillips will act as a sort of international coffee ambassador: His name will be synonymous with specialty coffee in worldwide press, and he will be a featured guest at myriad international industry events. For Ric Rhinehart, president of the Specialty Coffee Association of America, Phillips is the right guy for the job. “Mike will be a great ambassador, bringing the appropriate blend of excitement and humility to his title,” says Rhinehart. “He’s a generous coffee spirit and has proven over and over his willingness to share his experience and insights while maintaining his own openness to new knowledge.”
 
It’ll be a hectic 12 months for the new champ, but he’s approaching it with characteristic humility. “This year will be daunting to say the least, but it’s a challenge I eagerly accept and look forward to,” Phillips says.

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